TRAVEL
The Five Minute Guide To... Barcelona
The Catalonian capital of of Barcelona is fast becoming Europe's premiere gay destination, as Stephen Meyler found out.
Most gay visitors to Barcelona arrive in the summer to take advantage of both the city's thriving scene and the gayed-up resort of Sitges, about half an hour south along the coast by train.
However, the Catalan capital is just as enticing out of season. While Sitges is pretty quiet between October and May, the city's nightlife keeps going regardless and is hugely popular with tourists from other parts of Spain as well as us northern Europeans. It's long been on the gay itinerary and justifies its reputation for being an effortlessly cool place - whether it's the young, cheap glasses of cervesa-cool of the city's large student population or the up-market designer cool that Catalans do less frenetically than their Madrileno cousins.
The city seems designed to make it easy for visitors; the airport is about 30 minutes by train or taxi from Plaìa de Catalunya at the city's heart; there are buzzing beaches three Metro stops away in Barceloneta; the place is filled with art, architecture and cultural events (this year marks Dali's centenary) and the gay scene really does have something for everyone. All of the main gay activity is in walking distance and on a balmy Barcelona night, meandering from bar to bar is a pleasure. And, as you'd expect for the Irish visitor, prices are a doddle.
Arriving in Plaìa de Catalunya, the city's main street, the Ramblas, is an easy to find orientation in this city of 2.5 million. It runs from the square (actually more of a diamond) straight as an arrow to the port, which was tarted up in the last decade and now incorporates cinemas, a shopping centre, an enormous aquarium and a cable car to Montjuic, one of the green hills around the city centre.
The Ramblas' central promenade is recommended in all the tourist guides, but it really is a must - every tourist and, in the early evening, a sizeable number of the locals, stroll its length, taking a little light exercise before dinner at, you guessed it, one of many hundreds of restaurants to either side. Entertainment comes from street performers, many of the living statue persuasion, but also from the stalls that line most of the street. Stroll through the fragrant flower section, the musical bird section or the, well, fragrant, porno section.
To the left as you wander towards the port and the Columbus monument, where the explorer is strangely pointing inland, but towards America, is the old city, the Barrio Gÿtic, a maze of streets with tiny boutiques, bars and cafÄs below and old shuttered apartments above. Many of these apartments can be rented for a couple of weeks and are perfect for a total immersion city break.
There are several gay bars in the Barrio; all of them small, quirky and filled most nights by a student/alternative crowd getting down to campy Spanish Europop - they looked like they should be doing it ironically, but it's hard to tell with Catalans, who throw themselves at life with gusto. One of the best is Padam Padam, where, even on an early weeknight, the dancefloor expands to fill the whole place.
A note about safety: many guides warn about pickpockets and muggers, although during my visit I didn't feel threatened anywhere. However, across the Ramblas from the Barrio is a bit seedy and run down _ this part of the city has become home for many of the people who moved out of the port area when it was gentrified. But on the whole, the city is so busy that it feels 'safe'.
For the total gay experience, you need to go to the northern end of Las Ramblas above Catalunya to the 18th century grid of streets called Eixample; the 'Gaixample'. Particularly around Consell de Cent and Consell Casanova, almost all of the bars are gay or as gay as you'll get in such a cosmopolitan place. As in most Spanish gay areas, there's a strict order in which they are busy.
A good plan is to move along Consell de Cent; having a drink in each bar - all have a different vibe, from cheesy to chic. As the night progresses (remembering that it's quiet until after 10pm), it's easy to forget that the Barca scene extends outside this easily negotiated grid of streets, but before you head off, get to the Metro, the biggest dance club in Eixample. Music is standard fare, but the cruisey/friendly atmosphere is infectious. It's relaxed enough for women to feel comfortable, but for guys - it's almost impossible not to score here.
Barcelona's biggest gay club is a little away from both Eixample and the Barrio; about 10 minutes along Ronda de San Pedro from Catalunya - worth the walk - it's huge! Open until 6am, Salvation is everything you'd expect from a big city gay club; enormous dancefloors with the full range of gay music from A to B, go-go boys, chill-out areas and more tanned and toned torso then you could wave an average-sized stick at.
The day after, tear yourself out of bed and go find the city's culture - we're talking Picasso, Gaudi and Mirù here! There are two bus tours, one north and one south, the red line and the blue line, which take in the cultural hotspots. Even if you have zero interest in architecture, I promise you will be blown away by the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's warped Gothic concrete and mosaic fantasy cathedral that is still under construction. Take the tour, climb the spiral staircase inside the 170m spires for one of the best views of the city and watch the 'concrete-masons' working high above your head among the buttresses.
To the north of the city centre is the hilltop garden suburb of Guell, where Gaudi made a park that has the best views of the city. It's a great place for a drink in the afternoon, especially after the steep climb up the hill from the tour bus drop-off point.
If all the culture is just too exhausting, check out the city beaches at Barceloneta - easily located beside the city's only twin skyscrapers; although artificial, they are a perfect half-day siesta when the streets become too much and at night, the canopied seafood restaurants are lively and the food is excellent, too.
THE VERY BEST...
BAR: Z:eltas, Carrer de Casanova, 75
Bar Zeltas currently is the most popular gay bar in Barcelona. It has a clubby atmosphere, but is chatty and friendly at the same time. Lots of gays meet here before going to Salvation or one of the other clubs.
RESTAURANT: El Quatre Gats, Calle Montsio, Barrio Gÿtic
The interior is a work of art, with mosaics throughout the restaurant. This was a popular hangout for artists and authors, including Picasso, and his menu design is still in use today.
CLUB: Salvation, Ronda de San Pedro, 19-21. Fri-Sat 00.00-06.00h
Barcelona's biggest gay club.Visiting big name DJs if that's your bag; if not get down with 2,000 like-minded individuals.
HOTEL: Hotel Axel, Aribau 33, +34 93 323 9393, www.hotelaxel.com
Luxurious boutique hotel in the heart of the gay scene complete with spa. The 66 sound-proof rooms have king size beds, flat screen TVs with high-speed internet connection and are decorated with exquisitely simple style.
SHOPPING: Around Plaìa Villa de Madrid
The streets in this area just off Las Ramblas at the northern end of Barrio Gÿtic have all of the designer shops you need and lots of others you've never heard of. Zara, schmara.
CULTURE-LITE: The Picasso Museum. Calle Montcada, 15-17
Three 18th century merchant palaces were redesigned to house this impressive but manageable collection of Picasso's work. An easy couple of hours, but get there early _ it gets very crowded.