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The Five Minute Guide To... Cape Town

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Photographer Lorna Fitzsimons went to Cape Town for a week-long fashion shoot, but, with the help of her make-up artist, ended up discovering a queer utopia.

In February this year myself and a crew packed our bags and headed off to South Africa to do a fashion shoot. How glamorous is that? Are you jealous yet? Well don't be, because believe me, it was hard work. Hot and sweaty with tons of work to do, I just about caught a glimpse of pink South Africa and loved it so much I'll be clambering back next year, come hell or high-water.

Our first night in Cape Town was very chilled. We sat outside a little restaurant on the strip at Sea Point, had a couple of glasses of wine and watched the talent go by. This definitely is the place to see what's on offer.

It was immediately obvious just how out 'n' proud Cape Town is. You also begin to realise just how beautiful the people in South Africa are. Tanned skin and half-naked bodies cruise by and check each other out. Absolutely everyone is fit, body conscious and brown. To top up on your own tan there are many beautiful white sandy beaches, including St James, Hout Bay, Camps Bay, Llandudno and Clifton. But if you want that 'all over' colour, it has to be Sandy Bay.

Cape Town is a pretty gay-friendly city. Our make-up artist, Luciano was a mine of information on the queer scene (as well as being a whiz with lippy and a straightening iron). He informed us that there are many gay and lesbian events in Cape Town throughout the year.

The biggest of these is an annual celebration, the Mother City Queer Project. This is huge event to mark the start of summer, which sees 8000 revellers dance the night away in 10 different party zones all over the city. Last year's theme was 'Kitch Kitchen', which, Luciano told me, inspired some very interesting costumes. For details of this year's party and pictures of previous events visit www.mcqp.co.za. Other community parties include Pride, Relish and Coco Latte. Also not to be missed are the Out in Africa: South African Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, and the Navy Festival!

Pink, pink, pink, everywhere. There's a pink map (just in case you get lost), a pink route (stunning holiday trail through the western cape using guesthouses which actively accommodate gay people), and a pink triangle (an area in the centre of Cape Town full of gay clubs and bars).

Entertainment seems to be the order of the day and all tastes are catered for. The 'in' places to go are, Café Manhattan (one of the oldest gay establishments in South Africa); The Bronx (a world-famous 'action' bar); On Broadway (a theatre featuring regular drag shows); Bar Code (the city's best leather bar); Sliver (for kicking up those heals); and Andiamo (for lounging and coffee). www.gaynetcapetown.co.za is by far the best web sight. It will give you all the information you need on where to go, what to do and where to stay, with lists of bars, clubs, accommodation, steam baths, and beauty treatments.

When you're not partying (or working!) there are plenty of cool touristy things to do. You can visit Robben Island, famous for having been the isolated prison of Nelson Mandela. Or why not take a cable car (or walk if your feeling energetic) to the top of Table Mountain and enjoy the breathtaking view. See were two oceans meet at Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope Nature reserve, or simply check out the diamonds on display everywhere. They're a girl's best friend, you know.

My biggest shock of the week happened one morning at 5am. As I left our accommodation in the suburb of Green Point to go location hunting, I noticed people going through the bins. It was obviously bin day and outside every house there were people rooting in the trash. This is a means of survival for some people in Cape Town. The enormous difference between those who have and those who haven't is incredibly visible.

After a week of crazy shooting, very early mornings and total madness, the time came to go home. We lugged all our gear to the airport only to find our flight was delayed 12 hours. A very helpful information desk made a few calls and within a half an hour we were winging our way to the Cape wine region to do a tour (get locked).

For the connoisseurs among you this is a must. The Cape's famous, award-winning wines can be purchased directly from the producers estates and slipped neatly into your luggage, although you are only technically allowed two bottles. The main wine routes are Stellenbosh, Franschboek, Paarl and Somerset West. We managed to hit three of them in one day. The day consisted a trip to four wineries, a beautiful lunch, a visit to the oldest shop in the region, a quick stop to the place where Nelson Mandela did his walk of freedom and delivery back to the airport just in time to slide onto the plane. Wine tasting in Cape Town is loads of fun, especially if you swallow!


THE VERY BEST...

Bar: Bronx Action Bar, 20 Somerset Rd, De Waterkant, Open 8pm 'til very late nightly
This is the most popular gay dance bar in the city, and the oldest. Expect a mix 'n' match crowd (mainly men), and a light-cruisy atmosphere.

Club: Confession, 27 Somerset Rd, Greenpoint, Friday and Saturday, 10pm 'til the wee small hours
Typical party-zone gay club full of guys with their shirts off who get off on progressive house. Bring your own whistle.

Restaurant: Café Manhattan, 74 Waterkant St, De Waterkant
The oldest gay restaurant in the city, this serves pretty traditional fare in a relaxed atmosphere.

Sauna: Hot House, 18 Jarvis St, Green Point, open noon 'til 2am.
Trendy modern sauna in the gay village with an upmarket atmosphere and amazing views from the sundeck.

Hotel: Metropole, 38 Long St, 021 424 7247, www.metropolehotel.co.za
Luxury boutique hotel with 27 rooms and 2 suites, beautifully appointed with stunning décor, it also houses the gay M-Bar and a great little restaurant, The Veranda.

Cruising Area: Sandy Bay, Llandudno
The beach itself is packed with men in the raw, but most of the action takes place in the bushes to the far right. At night the promenade along Sea Point, especially around Graaf's pool is the place to go.