TRAVEL
The Five Minute Guide To... Oslo
Neil Geraghty visits the City Of The Vikings and finds a compact, but thriving gay scene.
It's almost a thousand years since the Vikings last terrorised the Irish coastline and they'd turn in their burial ship graves if they knew that Norway was recently voted the most peaceful country in the world. With Ireland coming in at a close fourth, there's never been a better time to head north to check out our gay-friendly Viking cousins.
The best time to visit Oslo is in late June when, hot on the heels of the bonfires and fireworks of Norway's Midsummer Festival, the city holds its annual Gay Pride celebrations. With the city still in party mode, rainbow flags are hoisted up in front of the town hall, and a packed week of entertainment begins ranging from Eurovision Memory Lane concerts to the crowning of Mr Gay Norway.
With gay scenes virtually non-existent in Norway's more remote regions, guys and girls flock to Oslo from far flung corners of the country and in the bars and cafes, it's not uncommon to strike up conversations with gay visitors who live deep within the Arctic Circle.
Oslo is one of the world's most northerly capitals and during the white nights of early summer, the sun shines until almost 11 pm. It's at this time of year that the city looks at its very best. Oslo is beautifully located at the tip of its namesake Fjord and is surrounded by undulating mountains covered in pine forests.
In the Fjord itself, 40 or so tiny islands dotted with brightly coloured wooden summer houses are Oslo's favourite summertime haunts. In typical Scandinavian fashion, nude sun bathing is an obsession and if you fancy a spot of Viking naturism, hop on ferry number 94 from Vippetangen for the 10 minute crossing to Langøyene where you'll find plenty of Norse Gods sprawled over the granite rocks.
Oslo lies in the rain shadow of the Norwegian mountains so summers can be surprisingly hot although you'll need the constitution of an arctic seal to take a dip in the glacial water.
Oslo's city centre feels almost Parisian in its fin de siecle elegance. Karl Johans Gata, the Royal Boulevard is lined with pavement cafes where the locals lap up the summer sunshine listening to street jazz and drinking the unfortunately named Aass beer. It's Norway's oldest and most revered home brew and never fails to raise a snigger amongst English speaking visitors.
In line with Oslo's relaxed ambience, sightseeing is decidedly low key and easy on the feet. It's worth investing in an Oslo Pass which gives you unlimited access to the city's museums, transport network and also the wonderful Frognerbadet heated outdoor swimming pool, a popular after-work gay watering hole.
Every gay person at some stage in their life can relate to Munch's The Scream. It's also the target of choice for Scandinavia's nifty cat burglars who strike with monotonous regularity. The last time it disappeared was in 2004 when for two years the Munch Museum's version was held hostage and badly damaged in the process. It's now being restored but fortunately, the angst obsessed Munch painted several versions and the one currently on display can be found in Oslo's petite National Gallery. There's also an eminently nickable collection of French Impressionists.
For an exhilarating dose of maritime adventure take ferry 92 to the Bygdøy Peninsula where hiding behind the palatial white clapboard villas of Oslo's most exclusive suburb you'll find the world famous Viking Ship Museum. When you gaze at the astonishingly preserved wooden prows swirling with mythological Norse beasts it's impossible not to feel an ancestral racing of the pulse. A short stroll to the Fjord's edge brings you to the KonTiki Museum where a wonderful display of tinted 1940s photographs marks the 60th anniversary of Thor Heyerdahl's epic Pacific journey.
Oslo doesn't have a defined gay village but you'll find all the main venues sprinkled conveniently around the compact city centre. There's a refreshing inclusiveness to the bars and cafes with a healthy mixture of ages and sexes. In the early evening, the city's designer cafés are the most popular hangouts.
Ett Glass (Karl Johan Gata 33) and Elsker (Kristen IV Gata 9) are similar in feel with dark moody interiors lit by flickering candles. Both have sunny outdoor terraces and in a city regularly voted the most expensive in the world, they're also excellent dinner spots serving up good value salads and Scandinavian style open sandwiches.
For a few late night pints of Aass, London Pub (CJ Hambbross Plass 5) and Bobs Pub (Grønland 3) are Oslo's old faithfuls, both slightly frayed around the edges but what they lack in appearance, they more than make up in friendliness. If you feel like dancing away the white nights head over to Studio 17 (Pilestredet 17) which specialises in cheesy '70s and '80s nostalgia while Fire@stratos (www.fireoslo.com) holds regular roof parties from April to September.
Oslo is a much overlooked destination on the European short break circuit but with its easy going pace, friendly inhabitants and beautiful location, it more than holds its own against its more popular rivals. The city's tourism emblem is a rainbow coloured long boat prow which perfectly symbolises the warm welcome that this peaceful and tolerant 'City of the Vikings' extends to the gay visitor.
Scandinavian Airlines fly direct to Oslo from Dublin. Visit www.scandinavian.net for the latest offers
The Very Best...
BAR: ELSKER Kristen Gata 9
Neutrogena perfect complexions and immaculate blonde highlights in this young stylish bar in the heart of the University district
WOMEN'S BAR: NAKEN Pilestredet 17
Viking sisters doing it for themselves every Saturday night from 10pm
CLUB: STUDIO 17 Pilestredet 17
Packed Basement club with a real smorgasbord of Norwegian eye candy.
SAUNA: HERCULES Storgata 41
Four immaculately clean floors of unadulterated Viking pillage.
HOTEL: CLARION ROYAL CHRISTIANIA Biskop Gunnerusgate 3
Crisp and comfortable Scandinavian design, deep-sleep beds and an enormous breakfast buffet fit for a hungry Thor.
Restaurant: SULT, Thorvald Meyers Gate
Fresh Norwegian seafood and excellent people watching in the trendiest district of Oslo.
More information about Oslo can be found at www.visitoslo.com. Further information on visiting Norway is available from Innovation Norway (the Norwegian Tourist Board) at www.visitnorway.com/uk